Finishing
The function of the tools I use and how they work are explained here. Specific tools used are noted in bold.
Before applying the finish all pieces were sanded. The arches were sanded to 320 grit, and the top to 600. A bright light is shown at an acute angle across the wood to highlight any scratches or blemishes.
There are three different finishes on the table. Multiple coats are applied with a HVLP sprayer to build depth and luster.
The bubinga base and main arch are finished with an oil based polyurethane that is applied over a pre coat of Watco finishing oil, which brings out the rich colors and depth of grain in the wood.
The downward arches are painted black. A heavy coat of epoxy sealer is first applied and then sanded to provide a smooth base.
The top is finished with automotive clear coat. This is the same finish that is applied on top of automotive paint. Clear coat is used because it can be readily polished to a high gloss. After spraying on the clear coat, the table is hand wet sanded to level the surface and remove any blemishes. The first photo shows the “orange peel” bumps and blemishes of the sprayed clear coat. Wet sanding with water provides lubricant to ensure a smooth cut and prevent the very fine sandpaper from clogging with residue. I start with 400 grit sandpaper, and move through 600, 800, 1,000 and 1,500 grit. Once wet sanding is complete the finish should be dead flat with no visible dimples or flaws. If all looks good I move onto polishing with the power buffer.
